Conversation’ Watchmaker-cartier Watch Workshop And Movement Development

Recently, Cartier held a ‘Dialogue’ watchmaker media sharing meeting in Shanghai, and invited Mr. Sebastien Mathez, the director of Cartier’s fine watchmaking workshop and Geneva’s premium imprint watch workshop, who visited China for the first time to come to the scene To show you the complex movement technology, to tell the brand’s unremitting history and strong technical strength in the field of watchmaking.

 Since the first waist-link watch was sold in 1874, Cartier has created countless models with different designs and complicated functions. It has witnessed the brand’s accomplishments in aesthetic design and technology, and also shows Cartier’s past 100 years. For more than 60 years, a glorious journey of innovation and innovation.

In 1904, Cartier launched the first truly modern watch, the Santos. This watch was designed to be worn on the wrist, announcing the advent of the watch era. In 1912, Cartier’s first mysterious clock was born. With its hands suspended in the air, it was hailed as a ‘miracle in the history of clocks’. Born in 1917, the Cartier Tank watch, the avant-garde style broke the rules of the round dial, creating a new era of square watches.

Fine watchmaking occupies an important position in the creation history of Cartier watches, showing a rich diversity and valuable continuity. Today’s Cartier Haute Horlogerie series highlights the rich heritage of the brand since the beginning of the twentieth century, as well as the style exploration and evolution leading the era.

In order to better explain Cartier’s long watchmaking history and top-notch production technology, this media sharing session will show the brand’s strong watchmaking strength in the way of ‘dialogue’ watchmaking master-Mr. Sebastien Mathez. The four generations of Mr. Mathez’s family are watchmakers. He joined Cartier in 2001 and was responsible for integrating complex function movements, such as tourbillons, perpetual calendars, three questions, etc. In 2003, he was appointed head of Cartier’s after-sales service. Since 2009, he has also served as the complication watch manager, head of after-sales service and production director of ‘Poinçon de Genève’ (Geneva Seal of Quality) at the Cartier La Chaux-de-Fonds watch workshop. Since 2012 he has been in charge of Cartier’s Antique Restoration Workshop. In 2013, he was appointed Director of Cartier’s Fine Watchmaking and Geneva Premium Imprint Watch Workshop.

La Chaux-de-Fonds Watch Workshop

Since its establishment, Cartier is known for its sophisticated watchmaking skills, and its watch works have all shown extraordinary manufacturing techniques and outstanding artistic accomplishments. In the 1970s, Cartier acquired some watchmaking factories in La Chaux-de-Fonds and entered the heart of Swiss watchmaking.

At present, Cartier owns a total of six watch workshops in Switzerland. The watch workshop in La Chaux-de-Fonds was completed in 2000, integrating many watchmaking units of the brand that were scattered in La Chaux-De-Fonds at that time. This watch workshop covering an area of ​​over 30,000 square meters is the center of Cartier timepiece design and production. It has the most advanced technology and equipment, and is also one of the largest fully integrated watch workshops in Switzerland. The workshop brought together more than 1,200 skilled artisans from 37 countries, covering 175 watchmaking skills, belonging to the movement research and development, watch production, quality control and customer service departments, and the repair department. As one of the few watch workshops that can completely design, produce and repair its own watches and movements, it represents the perfect fusion of high technology and craftsmanship.

In order to establish and strengthen communication among various departments, the Cartier La Chardonnay Watch Workshop first launched the “Made in Cartier” program in 2005 to ensure that each timepiece work can be used in all stages of design and development. Get input from different professional departments. In 2007, the ‘THINK TANK’ plan, based on the concept of ‘the same team, the same place,’ brought together all the processes required to manufacture a watch or movement, and managed them by district. This innovative mode of time and space management facilitates the sharing of various manual skills, quickly transforms design concepts into works, and puts Cartier Watch Workshop among the few with the ability to produce all watch or movement parts (including the case , Straps, hands, mirrors, plywood, watch bridges, etc.).

Cartier’s watchmaking studio (l’espace Production) is like a concert hall, and the master watchmakers are ‘conductors of small orchestras’, assembling hundreds of parts by hand, and then carefully adjusting, Into a moving piece of music. At all stages of watch development, all components are thoroughly tested to ensure compliance with their functional standards, durability standards and applicable standards from an ergonomic point of view. During the research and development process, the watch needs to undergo nearly 150 different identification tests and inspection steps, so as to evaluate each part of the watch and the overall coordinated operation of the watch.

The watchmakers in the Cartier Watchmaking Studio (l’ espace Production) assembled hundreds of parts by hand and then carefully adjusted them.

In La Chaux-de-Font watch workshops, Cartier has always provided comprehensive internal training courses, because the production of each movement has its own special requirements, which requires a lot of training outside the standard courses of watchmaking schools. While relentlessly pursuing innovation, Cartier is also actively guarding traditional arts and ancient watchmaking techniques, and inheriting the watchmaking tradition through internal training and process integration. The Institute Horlogerie Cartier, founded by Cartier Watch Workshop, provides trainees with new skills training to ensure that Swiss watchmaking technology can be promoted in the future.

Movement R & D and Fine Watchmaking

In the Cartier La Chateaux watch workshop, a 35-person movement research and development team and a 60-person watch design team have been set up to ensure that from the initial idea to the final formation, it is possible to create a machine entirely designed and developed by the brand. Core and watch. In 2009 and 2012, Cartier launched the first life-long concept watch without adjustment ID One and the first high-performance concept watch ID Two, which opened up an unprecedented new direction for mechanical watches.

In 2009, Cartier’s first self-winding mechanical movement, 1904 MC, was born, reflecting the brand’s innovative spirit and ambition in the development of self-made movements, and also providing more possibilities for Cartier watch creation . From Calibre de Cartier watches to Tank MC watches, the 1904 MC movement is gradually becoming the backbone of Cartier watch movements.

With its creativity, precision, and innovation, the Cartier Watch Workshop continues to open up new territories and challenges extreme excellence. Since the launch of the new Haute Horlogerie series in 2008, Cartier has developed 25 self-made Haute Horlogerie movements in just 6 years, 9 of which are even more honored by the Geneva premium mark representing the quality of top-level watches, showing the brand’s Increasing strength in the field of watchmaking.

Some of the most striking examples of Cartier’s fine watchmaking collections include the 2011 Rotonde de Cartier Astrorégulateur celestial constant center of gravity device watch, the 2012 Rotonde de Cartier floating tourbillon minute repeater watch, and the 2013 Rotonde The de Cartier dual mysterious tourbillon watch and the latest Rotonde de Cartier Astrocalendaire watch launched in 2014, show Cartier’s high level of accomplishment in the field of movement creation, and also reflect Cartier’s uniqueness for advanced complex functions opinion.

Rotonde de Cartier Astrocalendaire watch with perpetual calendar, Cartier 9459 MC workshop refined movement, engraved ‘Geneva quality seal’
Rotonde de Cartier dual mysterious tourbillon watch, Cartier 9454 MC workshop refined movement, engraved with ‘Geneva quality seal’
Rotonde de Cartier watch with floating tourbillon, Cartier 9402 MC workshop refined movement, engraved with ‘Geneva quality seal’
Rotonde de Cartier Astrorégulateur celestial constant center of gravity device watch, Cartier 9800MC workshop refined movement
POPOINÇON DE GENÈVE Workshop

In 2008, Cartier Ballon Bleu de Cartier floating tourbillon 9452 MC calibre was awarded the ‘Poinçon de Genève’ certification for the first time. To date, Cartier has 43 watches engraved with the mark. Successfully ranked among the very few watch brands that have won the Poinçon de Genève mark, which reflects Cartier’s values ​​of watchmaking heritage, adherence to stringent requirements, and the pursuit of excellence.

The ‘Poinçon de Genève’ has a long history. It was first established in 1886 through the Geneva Laws. Since then, it has been revised and improved several times. Watches from the Canton of Geneva are inspected by an independent testing agency. Today, the ‘Poinçon de Genève’ is awarded by the Geneva Watchmaking and Micro-Engineering Laboratory (also known as the ‘Time Lab’) to highlight the outstanding features and aesthetics of watches that honor this mark, Only watches that meet aesthetic, technical (calibre design), timing (precision) and other standards and are assembled, adjusted and cased in the Canton of Geneva will be awarded this honor. Therefore, it is not only a proof of origin, but also a guarantee of high quality. For many years, the ‘Poinçon de Genève’ has only been used as the certification mark of the movement, but its latest regulation changes have extended the certification requirements to the entire watch, covering comprehensive functional standards and the entire case.

In order to better meet the stringent requirements of the latest Poinçon de Genève regulations, Cartier set up a Poinçon de Genève watch workshop last year in a boutique on 35 Rhone Street in Geneva. , Reappearing the classic scene of the ‘attic craftsman’ of the 18th century, when watchmakers often set up their workshops in the attic on the top floor of the watch shop. Today, many Cartier fine watchmaking engraved with the ‘Poinçon de Genève’ are assembled in this workshop.

In order to obtain the ‘Poinçon de Genève’, the Cartier Watch Workshop presents exquisite movements to certified experts: the chamfers of the main bridge and the bridge are polished and the sides are brushed. The screw head must be polished, and the screw grooves and corners must be chamfered … In addition, the watch must pass the most stringent precision performance test: in the seven-day observation, the travel time error can not exceed 1 minute.

‘Poinçon de Genève’ is the outstanding symbol of Cartier workshop refined movement, and it is also a symbol of its connotation beauty. Cartier’s ‘Poinçon de Genève’ watch workshop is a guarantee of the brand’s watch’s outstanding performance, exquisite decoration and extraordinary quality, which demonstrates Cartier’s exquisite craftsmanship based on the highest standards of Geneva watchmaking and a long tradition. With determination.

 Cartier 9452 MC calibre, awarded ‘Poinçon de Genève’

Since the 19th century, Cartier has continued to write new chapters in the history of watchmaking, creating legends with extraordinary works. Each unique Cartier watch proves that a complex function is not only a mere crystallization of technology, but also a carrier that perfectly integrates function and beauty. As always, the Cartier Watch Workshop continues to interpret the rules of watchmaking and break the rules to produce unparalleled classics that have won excellence and exclusive certification marks.

Categories: watches