Three years ago, CHANEL launched the first brand-made movement Calibre 1, which stunning the entire fine watchmaking industry. Chanel, which launched the brand’s first watch only in 1987, wanted to produce and develop the brand’s own movement, which itself is a great test of technology, design and craftsmanship. At this Basel watch exhibition, Chanel launched the third self-developed mechanical movement Calibre 3. Compared with the previous two homemade movements, is Calibre 3 an overly bold attempt or is it the result of breaking through and achieving success? Let’s follow the Watch House and explore the secrets of Calibre 3.
Chanel’s first self-made fine watchmaking movement Calibre 1
In the history of watchmaking in Chanel, for a long time, the ETA-based introduction movement was used. Although the watch was also equipped with the 3125 movement provided by Audemars Piguet (AP), but developed and This self-made movement is a long-time goal of Chanel watches. Everything is difficult at the beginning. The brand began to develop this movement in 2011, which includes front-end design, research and development, and back-end assembly testing.
Chanel-made Calibre 1 design
In the design diagram of 1 movement, we can see that it uses a special display mode such as time jump and eccentric reverse jump. So, when someone questioned that this movement was claimed to be a homemade movement based on a slight modification of the ETA movement, the answer was obviously obvious-impossible. First of all. ETA movement is difficult to reach such a level in the manufacturing process. Secondly, from the back of the movement, we can see that it has a unique style. Such a design and processing level is difficult to reach mass production, and it is difficult to popularize it to general product operation lines.
Monsieur de Chanel with Calibre 1
The Calibre 1, which was successfully developed, was loaded into the Monsieur de Chanel watch, which became the first watch equipped with this movement. It is designed for men. The design of the dial is simple and powerful. Chanel has redefined a new trend.
Chanel’s second self-made fine watchmaking mechanical movement-Calibre 2
At the Basel Watch Fair last year, we saw the second self-made movement developed by Chanel-Calibre 2, a movement designed for ladies’ watches. The Calibre 2 took 3 years to develop. Why it took so long, the difficulty of Calibre 2 research and development lies in rebuilding the beauty of the movement-the balance between camellia and movement.
Chanel Gabrielle Chanel
We know that Ms. Chanel has always loved camellia throughout her life, and camellia has also become an important connotation and soul of the Chanel brand. She has turned camellia into a beautiful and stretchable movement structure, using artistic beauty to achieve expectations on a technical level. How to transform the design that jumps on paper into the actual structure of the movement is the difficulty for the brand to capture.
But Chanel did it. The second self-produced Calibre 2 consisted of 107 parts, including 21 rubies. The vibration frequency reaches 28,800 times / hour, and the power reserve reaches 48 hours. The movement board is surrounded by rings, like a camellia blooming. The PREMIÈRE hollowed camellia watch equipped with this movement also captured the hearts of women with its three-dimensional shape and impeccable design.
Chanel’s third self-made fine watchmaking mechanical movement-Calibre 3
This year, Chanel released the Calibre 3, the third self-made fine watchmaking mechanical movement, and for the first time brought a hollow design to the boyfriend model of the neutral style. Calibre 3 can serve the overall aesthetics of the watch and blends perfectly with the octagonal case of the Boy · Friend series.
Chanel’s third self-made watchmaking mechanical movement-Calibre 3
Unlike many other fine watchmaking movements, Calibre
The 3 movement is not mirror-polished or other delicate hand-finished, but this does not mean that this movement has no technical content. The movement is treated with black ADLC coating, which is similar to DLC (Diamond-Like Carbon Coating). The ADLC carbon coating can provide extremely strong resistance. The special characteristics of the material make it have super shock resistance and scratch resistance. On the movement material, Chanel has shown us more possibilities.
Calibre 3 movement with black ADLC coating
Boy · Friend Hollow Watch Parts
The new Boy Friend Skeleton Watch retains its classic design and adds more ideas to it. The iconic octagonal case is equipped with Calibre 3 movement with black ADLC coating, which is cut out of the bridge. The edges are coated with beige gold plating, and each watch perfectly solves every complexity. Technical difficulties.
Boy · Friend skeleton watch sketch
In fact, for the hollow dial design, the technical requirements are higher. When hollow-out elements are increasingly used in the design of dials, to stand out from a large number of models, it is necessary to win by design and production technology. Especially in the selection and development of the movement, how to choose, how to make the whole work in harmony, how to show the beauty of different movements to the public, can the new Calibre 3 bring more different perceptions in technology and design? Experience. For Chanel, the new movement also represents a new challenge.
Boy · Friend Hollow Watch X-Ray Laser
Excluding the excess metal, the arrangement of the gears is carried out with the contours of camellia. This is of course a test of mechanical engineering, because the arrangement of mechanical structures in traditional tabulations has a certain benchmark and cannot be changed at will.
Boy · Friend Hollow Watch Movement Assembly Drawing
The Chanel Boy · Friend series watch with the new Calibre 3 movement, which was presented to us in the end, is a manually wound movement with a fully skeletonized design without a rudder cover. The barrel can ensure at least 55 hours The power reserve is also equipped with anti-shock device. Neither in appearance nor performance disappointed us.
Chanel Boy ∙ Skeleton Watch
Chanel Boy ∙ Friend with the new Calibre 3 movement
The skeletonized watch will be unveiled tomorrow at the Basel exhibition, and two styles are available. The regular model is priced at 36,500 euros and the bezel-set diamond is priced at 42,500 euros. Friends who are interested can join the Watch House and follow up on the follow-up reports to explore the Chanel Calibre
3 endless charm.