Month: April 2021

Breakthrough Myself? Chanel Launches Calibre 3

Three years ago, CHANEL launched the first brand-made movement Calibre 1, which stunning the entire fine watchmaking industry. Chanel, which launched the brand’s first watch only in 1987, wanted to produce and develop the brand’s own movement, which itself is a great test of technology, design and craftsmanship. At this Basel watch exhibition, Chanel launched the third self-developed mechanical movement Calibre 3. Compared with the previous two homemade movements, is Calibre 3 an overly bold attempt or is it the result of breaking through and achieving success? Let’s follow the Watch House and explore the secrets of Calibre 3.

Chanel’s first self-made fine watchmaking movement Calibre 1
 In the history of watchmaking in Chanel, for a long time, the ETA-based introduction movement was used. Although the watch was also equipped with the 3125 movement provided by Audemars Piguet (AP), but developed and This self-made movement is a long-time goal of Chanel watches. Everything is difficult at the beginning. The brand began to develop this movement in 2011, which includes front-end design, research and development, and back-end assembly testing.

Chanel-made Calibre 1 design
 From Calibre
In the design diagram of 1 movement, we can see that it uses a special display mode such as time jump and eccentric reverse jump. So, when someone questioned that this movement was claimed to be a homemade movement based on a slight modification of the ETA movement, the answer was obviously obvious-impossible. First of all. ETA movement is difficult to reach such a level in the manufacturing process. Secondly, from the back of the movement, we can see that it has a unique style. Such a design and processing level is difficult to reach mass production, and it is difficult to popularize it to general product operation lines.

Monsieur de Chanel with Calibre 1
 The Calibre 1, which was successfully developed, was loaded into the Monsieur de Chanel watch, which became the first watch equipped with this movement. It is designed for men. The design of the dial is simple and powerful. Chanel has redefined a new trend.

Chanel’s second self-made fine watchmaking mechanical movement-Calibre 2
 At the Basel Watch Fair last year, we saw the second self-made movement developed by Chanel-Calibre 2, a movement designed for ladies’ watches. The Calibre 2 took 3 years to develop. Why it took so long, the difficulty of Calibre 2 research and development lies in rebuilding the beauty of the movement-the balance between camellia and movement.

Chanel Gabrielle Chanel

 We know that Ms. Chanel has always loved camellia throughout her life, and camellia has also become an important connotation and soul of the Chanel brand. She has turned camellia into a beautiful and stretchable movement structure, using artistic beauty to achieve expectations on a technical level. How to transform the design that jumps on paper into the actual structure of the movement is the difficulty for the brand to capture.

 But Chanel did it. The second self-produced Calibre 2 consisted of 107 parts, including 21 rubies. The vibration frequency reaches 28,800 times / hour, and the power reserve reaches 48 hours. The movement board is surrounded by rings, like a camellia blooming. The PREMIÈRE hollowed camellia watch equipped with this movement also captured the hearts of women with its three-dimensional shape and impeccable design.

Chanel’s third self-made fine watchmaking mechanical movement-Calibre 3
 This year, Chanel released the Calibre 3, the third self-made fine watchmaking mechanical movement, and for the first time brought a hollow design to the boyfriend model of the neutral style. Calibre 3 can serve the overall aesthetics of the watch and blends perfectly with the octagonal case of the Boy · Friend series.

Chanel’s third self-made watchmaking mechanical movement-Calibre 3

 Unlike many other fine watchmaking movements, Calibre
The 3 movement is not mirror-polished or other delicate hand-finished, but this does not mean that this movement has no technical content. The movement is treated with black ADLC coating, which is similar to DLC (Diamond-Like Carbon Coating). The ADLC carbon coating can provide extremely strong resistance. The special characteristics of the material make it have super shock resistance and scratch resistance. On the movement material, Chanel has shown us more possibilities.

Calibre 3 movement with black ADLC coating

Boy · Friend Hollow Watch Parts

 The new Boy Friend Skeleton Watch retains its classic design and adds more ideas to it. The iconic octagonal case is equipped with Calibre 3 movement with black ADLC coating, which is cut out of the bridge. The edges are coated with beige gold plating, and each watch perfectly solves every complexity. Technical difficulties.

Boy · Friend skeleton watch sketch

 In fact, for the hollow dial design, the technical requirements are higher. When hollow-out elements are increasingly used in the design of dials, to stand out from a large number of models, it is necessary to win by design and production technology. Especially in the selection and development of the movement, how to choose, how to make the whole work in harmony, how to show the beauty of different movements to the public, can the new Calibre 3 bring more different perceptions in technology and design? Experience. For Chanel, the new movement also represents a new challenge.

Boy · Friend Hollow Watch X-Ray Laser

 Excluding the excess metal, the arrangement of the gears is carried out with the contours of camellia. This is of course a test of mechanical engineering, because the arrangement of mechanical structures in traditional tabulations has a certain benchmark and cannot be changed at will.

Boy · Friend Hollow Watch Movement Assembly Drawing

 The Chanel Boy · Friend series watch with the new Calibre 3 movement, which was presented to us in the end, is a manually wound movement with a fully skeletonized design without a rudder cover. The barrel can ensure at least 55 hours The power reserve is also equipped with anti-shock device. Neither in appearance nor performance disappointed us.

Chanel Boy ∙ Skeleton Watch
 Chanel Boy ∙ Friend with the new Calibre 3 movement
The skeletonized watch will be unveiled tomorrow at the Basel exhibition, and two styles are available. The regular model is priced at 36,500 euros and the bezel-set diamond is priced at 42,500 euros. Friends who are interested can join the Watch House and follow up on the follow-up reports to explore the Chanel Calibre
 3 endless charm.

The Audemars Piguet Sounds Of Nature: Remember The Birth Of A Super Timekeeping Watch

If there is a watch that can represent the highest level of chronograph watches to date, I think the non-Audemars Piguet Royal Oak concept series super chronograph watch is undoubted. This watch lasted 8 years of unremitting research and development, and at the same time has the chronograph, three questions, tourbillon complex functions, presenting the world with an unparalleled auditory feast. This watch features a lightweight titanium case that sounds perfectly the same, and meets the highest standards of watchmaking with unparalleled acoustic performance, sophisticated sound quality and precise tonality. The official watch model is 26577TI.OO.D002CA.01.

   This super watch full of dreams, since 2006, Audemars Piguet has collaborated with the EPFL (Ecole Polytechnique Fédérale de Lausanne) to launch a pioneering acoustic research program for timepieces. Today, this sound measuring device is installed in the Audemars Piguet factory. Audemars Piguet watchmakers, craftsmen, professional technicians and experts from the Federal Institute of Technology in Lausanne work together to improve the timekeeping of the watch to a very precise level through scientific research. . Grinding a sword in eight years, now this watch has won three innovation patents, becoming today’s unparalleled minute repeater masterpiece.

A wonderful ‘acoustic instrument’
   This watch is not only a chronograph watch, its design concept comes from the principle of making stringed instruments, it can be said to be an ‘acoustic instrument’. In July of this year, Audemars Piguet also invited the famous musician Surkin (GENER8ION) to visit the birthplace of the brand, that is, Ru Gusas Brassus, to make and visualize the magnificent and superb timepieces of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Series Super Timepiece from a musical perspective Beep

New technology wakes up sound
   Audemars Piguet, as the most sophisticated minute repeater watch today, has its own unique features. Three new patents show the constant pursuit of craftsmanship and technology by Audemars Piguet watchmakers. First of all, this super chronograph watch uses a new method to design a stainless steel gong structure to create a unique minute repeater sound. Second, the Royal Oak concept series of super chronograph watches uses a newly developed case. The structure can prevent sound loss and achieve the effect of sound reinforcement. This technological innovation is like a guitar case. Through precise resonance, the sound intensity, tone and tone are improved. Finally, it is used to control the adjustment of time, time and minute rhythm. The device is also newly designed, the gong bolt is more flexible, and it can absorb the noise generated when the time signal device operates. With continuous development and innovation, Audemars Piguet’s bright and clear timekeeping voice is perfectly presented.

Complex functions and refined appearance

   Audemars Piguet manual winding watches are renowned for their reliability. The sanding, polishing and decoration of this movement is entirely done by hand to achieve the perfect quality followed by fine watchmaking. The watch is equipped with a Calibre 2937 hand-wound self-produced movement with a total of 478 parts, a power reserve of at least 42 hours, and a balance frequency of 3Hz (= 21,600 times / hour). The tourbillon function can successfully challenge gravity and improve timing accuracy, and the three-question function can make the height of the gong change let you listen to the time accurately.

Bezel

   The bezel of the watch is made of titanium, which is typical of the Royal Oak series. The iconic connection of eight hexagonal screws forms the shape of an octagonal bezel.

Case

   The 44mm case of the watch is made of lightweight titanium with architectural beauty, and the black splint becomes the background of the time adjustment structure of stainless steel. The craftsmanship required to design a watch case that feels perfect and harmonious to the wearer must meet the requirements of high-end technology, and this is an art practiced by Audemars Piguet. The black ceramic screw-in crown makes adjustments easier and more comfortable.

dial

   The hollow dial presents the modern technology contained in the watch, and the precise design of the new movement is clear at a glance. The tourbillon at 6 o’clock can be clearly seen from the precision-designed dial. The 3 o’clock scale is the chronograph scale, and the timing buttons are located on both sides of the crown. With a black dial, cutouts and satin finish, this watch looks extremely cool.

Strap

    The watch uses a rubber strap and a titanium AP folding clasp.

To sum up: the world’s sound is packed into a watch, then owning this watch is equivalent to owning the world. The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Series Super Chronograph is an amazing timepiece that allows us to see exquisite craftsmanship and high technology in ordinary life. Listen to Audemars Piguet, and pursue the beauty of the world with Audemars Piguet.

Conversation’ Watchmaker-cartier Watch Workshop And Movement Development

Recently, Cartier held a ‘Dialogue’ watchmaker media sharing meeting in Shanghai, and invited Mr. Sebastien Mathez, the director of Cartier’s fine watchmaking workshop and Geneva’s premium imprint watch workshop, who visited China for the first time to come to the scene To show you the complex movement technology, to tell the brand’s unremitting history and strong technical strength in the field of watchmaking.

 Since the first waist-link watch was sold in 1874, Cartier has created countless models with different designs and complicated functions. It has witnessed the brand’s accomplishments in aesthetic design and technology, and also shows Cartier’s past 100 years. For more than 60 years, a glorious journey of innovation and innovation.

In 1904, Cartier launched the first truly modern watch, the Santos. This watch was designed to be worn on the wrist, announcing the advent of the watch era. In 1912, Cartier’s first mysterious clock was born. With its hands suspended in the air, it was hailed as a ‘miracle in the history of clocks’. Born in 1917, the Cartier Tank watch, the avant-garde style broke the rules of the round dial, creating a new era of square watches.

Fine watchmaking occupies an important position in the creation history of Cartier watches, showing a rich diversity and valuable continuity. Today’s Cartier Haute Horlogerie series highlights the rich heritage of the brand since the beginning of the twentieth century, as well as the style exploration and evolution leading the era.

In order to better explain Cartier’s long watchmaking history and top-notch production technology, this media sharing session will show the brand’s strong watchmaking strength in the way of ‘dialogue’ watchmaking master-Mr. Sebastien Mathez. The four generations of Mr. Mathez’s family are watchmakers. He joined Cartier in 2001 and was responsible for integrating complex function movements, such as tourbillons, perpetual calendars, three questions, etc. In 2003, he was appointed head of Cartier’s after-sales service. Since 2009, he has also served as the complication watch manager, head of after-sales service and production director of ‘Poinçon de Genève’ (Geneva Seal of Quality) at the Cartier La Chaux-de-Fonds watch workshop. Since 2012 he has been in charge of Cartier’s Antique Restoration Workshop. In 2013, he was appointed Director of Cartier’s Fine Watchmaking and Geneva Premium Imprint Watch Workshop.

La Chaux-de-Fonds Watch Workshop

Since its establishment, Cartier is known for its sophisticated watchmaking skills, and its watch works have all shown extraordinary manufacturing techniques and outstanding artistic accomplishments. In the 1970s, Cartier acquired some watchmaking factories in La Chaux-de-Fonds and entered the heart of Swiss watchmaking.

At present, Cartier owns a total of six watch workshops in Switzerland. The watch workshop in La Chaux-de-Fonds was completed in 2000, integrating many watchmaking units of the brand that were scattered in La Chaux-De-Fonds at that time. This watch workshop covering an area of ​​over 30,000 square meters is the center of Cartier timepiece design and production. It has the most advanced technology and equipment, and is also one of the largest fully integrated watch workshops in Switzerland. The workshop brought together more than 1,200 skilled artisans from 37 countries, covering 175 watchmaking skills, belonging to the movement research and development, watch production, quality control and customer service departments, and the repair department. As one of the few watch workshops that can completely design, produce and repair its own watches and movements, it represents the perfect fusion of high technology and craftsmanship.

In order to establish and strengthen communication among various departments, the Cartier La Chardonnay Watch Workshop first launched the “Made in Cartier” program in 2005 to ensure that each timepiece work can be used in all stages of design and development. Get input from different professional departments. In 2007, the ‘THINK TANK’ plan, based on the concept of ‘the same team, the same place,’ brought together all the processes required to manufacture a watch or movement, and managed them by district. This innovative mode of time and space management facilitates the sharing of various manual skills, quickly transforms design concepts into works, and puts Cartier Watch Workshop among the few with the ability to produce all watch or movement parts (including the case , Straps, hands, mirrors, plywood, watch bridges, etc.).

Cartier’s watchmaking studio (l’espace Production) is like a concert hall, and the master watchmakers are ‘conductors of small orchestras’, assembling hundreds of parts by hand, and then carefully adjusting, Into a moving piece of music. At all stages of watch development, all components are thoroughly tested to ensure compliance with their functional standards, durability standards and applicable standards from an ergonomic point of view. During the research and development process, the watch needs to undergo nearly 150 different identification tests and inspection steps, so as to evaluate each part of the watch and the overall coordinated operation of the watch.

The watchmakers in the Cartier Watchmaking Studio (l’ espace Production) assembled hundreds of parts by hand and then carefully adjusted them.

In La Chaux-de-Font watch workshops, Cartier has always provided comprehensive internal training courses, because the production of each movement has its own special requirements, which requires a lot of training outside the standard courses of watchmaking schools. While relentlessly pursuing innovation, Cartier is also actively guarding traditional arts and ancient watchmaking techniques, and inheriting the watchmaking tradition through internal training and process integration. The Institute Horlogerie Cartier, founded by Cartier Watch Workshop, provides trainees with new skills training to ensure that Swiss watchmaking technology can be promoted in the future.

Movement R & D and Fine Watchmaking

In the Cartier La Chateaux watch workshop, a 35-person movement research and development team and a 60-person watch design team have been set up to ensure that from the initial idea to the final formation, it is possible to create a machine entirely designed and developed by the brand. Core and watch. In 2009 and 2012, Cartier launched the first life-long concept watch without adjustment ID One and the first high-performance concept watch ID Two, which opened up an unprecedented new direction for mechanical watches.

In 2009, Cartier’s first self-winding mechanical movement, 1904 MC, was born, reflecting the brand’s innovative spirit and ambition in the development of self-made movements, and also providing more possibilities for Cartier watch creation . From Calibre de Cartier watches to Tank MC watches, the 1904 MC movement is gradually becoming the backbone of Cartier watch movements.

With its creativity, precision, and innovation, the Cartier Watch Workshop continues to open up new territories and challenges extreme excellence. Since the launch of the new Haute Horlogerie series in 2008, Cartier has developed 25 self-made Haute Horlogerie movements in just 6 years, 9 of which are even more honored by the Geneva premium mark representing the quality of top-level watches, showing the brand’s Increasing strength in the field of watchmaking.

Some of the most striking examples of Cartier’s fine watchmaking collections include the 2011 Rotonde de Cartier Astrorégulateur celestial constant center of gravity device watch, the 2012 Rotonde de Cartier floating tourbillon minute repeater watch, and the 2013 Rotonde The de Cartier dual mysterious tourbillon watch and the latest Rotonde de Cartier Astrocalendaire watch launched in 2014, show Cartier’s high level of accomplishment in the field of movement creation, and also reflect Cartier’s uniqueness for advanced complex functions opinion.

Rotonde de Cartier Astrocalendaire watch with perpetual calendar, Cartier 9459 MC workshop refined movement, engraved ‘Geneva quality seal’
Rotonde de Cartier dual mysterious tourbillon watch, Cartier 9454 MC workshop refined movement, engraved with ‘Geneva quality seal’
Rotonde de Cartier watch with floating tourbillon, Cartier 9402 MC workshop refined movement, engraved with ‘Geneva quality seal’
Rotonde de Cartier Astrorégulateur celestial constant center of gravity device watch, Cartier 9800MC workshop refined movement
POPOINÇON DE GENÈVE Workshop

In 2008, Cartier Ballon Bleu de Cartier floating tourbillon 9452 MC calibre was awarded the ‘Poinçon de Genève’ certification for the first time. To date, Cartier has 43 watches engraved with the mark. Successfully ranked among the very few watch brands that have won the Poinçon de Genève mark, which reflects Cartier’s values ​​of watchmaking heritage, adherence to stringent requirements, and the pursuit of excellence.

The ‘Poinçon de Genève’ has a long history. It was first established in 1886 through the Geneva Laws. Since then, it has been revised and improved several times. Watches from the Canton of Geneva are inspected by an independent testing agency. Today, the ‘Poinçon de Genève’ is awarded by the Geneva Watchmaking and Micro-Engineering Laboratory (also known as the ‘Time Lab’) to highlight the outstanding features and aesthetics of watches that honor this mark, Only watches that meet aesthetic, technical (calibre design), timing (precision) and other standards and are assembled, adjusted and cased in the Canton of Geneva will be awarded this honor. Therefore, it is not only a proof of origin, but also a guarantee of high quality. For many years, the ‘Poinçon de Genève’ has only been used as the certification mark of the movement, but its latest regulation changes have extended the certification requirements to the entire watch, covering comprehensive functional standards and the entire case.

In order to better meet the stringent requirements of the latest Poinçon de Genève regulations, Cartier set up a Poinçon de Genève watch workshop last year in a boutique on 35 Rhone Street in Geneva. , Reappearing the classic scene of the ‘attic craftsman’ of the 18th century, when watchmakers often set up their workshops in the attic on the top floor of the watch shop. Today, many Cartier fine watchmaking engraved with the ‘Poinçon de Genève’ are assembled in this workshop.

In order to obtain the ‘Poinçon de Genève’, the Cartier Watch Workshop presents exquisite movements to certified experts: the chamfers of the main bridge and the bridge are polished and the sides are brushed. The screw head must be polished, and the screw grooves and corners must be chamfered … In addition, the watch must pass the most stringent precision performance test: in the seven-day observation, the travel time error can not exceed 1 minute.

‘Poinçon de Genève’ is the outstanding symbol of Cartier workshop refined movement, and it is also a symbol of its connotation beauty. Cartier’s ‘Poinçon de Genève’ watch workshop is a guarantee of the brand’s watch’s outstanding performance, exquisite decoration and extraordinary quality, which demonstrates Cartier’s exquisite craftsmanship based on the highest standards of Geneva watchmaking and a long tradition. With determination.

 Cartier 9452 MC calibre, awarded ‘Poinçon de Genève’

Since the 19th century, Cartier has continued to write new chapters in the history of watchmaking, creating legends with extraordinary works. Each unique Cartier watch proves that a complex function is not only a mere crystallization of technology, but also a carrier that perfectly integrates function and beauty. As always, the Cartier Watch Workshop continues to interpret the rules of watchmaking and break the rules to produce unparalleled classics that have won excellence and exclusive certification marks.

Categories: watches