Month: May 2019

Introduction To Patek Philippe Chronograph Triple Complication

At the 2011 Baselworld Basleworld, Patek Philippe exhibited 6 new complication watches. The Ref. 5208P watch is undoubtedly one of the most striking. With three questions, a single button chronograph, a window-type perpetual calendar and moon phase display, it is Patek Philippe’s first triple complication watch with chronograph function. The new Ref. 5208P watch ranks second among Patek Philippe’s super-complex watches, second only to the Sky Moon Tourbillon.

The new Ref.5208P has a 44mm diameter design and a 18mm gold charcoal gray sunburst dial with a 40mm diameter. At first glance, the new Ref. 5208P watch may be somewhat similar to one of Patek Philippe’s famous annual calendar series, but the slider on the left side of the case, the chronograph single button at 2 o’clock and the 2 auxiliary dials are immediately Will tell people that this watch is more than just a perpetual calendar function. If the owner can wait patiently until midnight, he will witness an extremely rare gorgeous show, especially on New Year’s Eve. At that moment, the numbers representing the day of the week, date, month, and year will instantly and simultaneously jump, showing the next week, date, month, and year. Although the new Ref. 5208P watch has complex functions, the dial distribution is still simple and easy to read. From 11 o’clock to 1 o’clock, the day of the week, calendar, and monthly calendar are distributed in sequence; the moon phase display is located at 6 o’clock. The three-segment single button at 2 o’clock can be used to execute the three commands of start, stop and reset one after the other in a row. Seconds and fractions of a second are measured with the central chronograph seconds hand, while the cumulative timers at 3 and 9 o’clock can measure time within 60 minutes and 12 hours, respectively.

 The new Ref.5208P is equipped with the R CH 27 PS QI self-winding movement, making it one of the few existing watches that uses an automatic movement in the area of ​​advanced complications. The movement has a diameter of 32mm and consists of 701 parts. It is claimed to be the world’s thinnest spur wheel double-second chronograph movement. This movement provides frictional power for the minute and hour timer. The minute and hour cumulative timer is not only ultra-thin, but also offsets the torque difference between the timing device in the engaged and disengaged state, ensuring that the balance’s swing amplitude is in various operating modes. Be consistent. Even more noteworthy is that for the first time, the new Ref. 5208P truly integrates Silicon Silinvar components: the revolutionary Pulsomax escapement and the Spiromax balance spring.

 All of these components are housed in a PT950 platinum case, which is unusual in itself. It does not use the traditional case design of the lug-connected ring. In contrast, the case consists of three parts: the bottom cover, the ring and the bezel. These three parts are firmly fixed between the two clamps with screws. Only this unique structure can make the perforation of the lugs as decisive and beautiful as the design of the case itself. This structure makes this masterpiece of watch craftsmanship, mechanical aesthetics, delicate processing, high-quality materials and innovative design more glamorous. The strap is also made of the finest material: hand-stitched matte black square scale crocodile leather with a PT950 platinum folding clasp.
Since Ref.5208P is a limited edition, it was only sold exclusively at the Patek Philippe Geneva Salon in the early stages of release.

Single button timing
 In the process of developing new movements, Patek Philippe has always emphasized the aesthetics of craftsmanship of timepieces, and this is also one of the mandatory standards of Patek Philippe’s mark. For this reason, the star wheel and horizontal clutch of the chronograph must be very thin to fit in the tight space between the movement and the perpetual calendar. In this regard, Patek Philippe’s abundant products provide a lot of resources: the CH R 27-525 PS movement is the world’s thinnest star-wheel two-second chronograph movement. This movement provides frictional power for the minute and hour timer. The minute and hour cumulative timer is not only ultra-thin, but also offsets the torque difference between the timing device in the engaged and disengaged state, ensuring that the balance’s swing amplitude is in various operating modes. Be consistent. In addition, its tooth design is also derived from this record-setting chronograph wheel, which can reduce wear and increase power transmission efficiency. In contrast, the patented custom-made hammer and stop lever are derived from the new CH 29-535 chronograph movement. These parts can automatically maintain the optimal fork position with their respective opposing parts without having to spend a lot of time grinding the accuracy of each contact surface to a few hundredths of a millimeter. It is these innovations as well as the classic stud wheels and clutch brake wheels that will reduce the overall thickness of the timing device to 2.4 mm. In the end, the three-segment single button at 2 o’clock can execute the three commands of start, stop, and reset in sequence. Seconds and fractions of a second are measured with the central chronograph seconds hand, while the cumulative timers at 3 and 9 o’clock can measure time within 60 minutes and 12 hours, respectively.
Window-style instant jump perpetual calendar
 The basic structure of the perpetual calendar device is similar to the Ref. 5207 of 2008, but it must be significantly redesigned to integrate the timing function. Because the timing device is located between the calendar and the movement, it is not possible to simply introduce the splitter shaft from the timing wheel into a calendar module with standard time and calendar data display. Therefore, a circuit must be designed for the splitter shaft. Considering the small space inside the timing device, this is an extremely delicate task, and Patek Philippe has carried out a lot of research work in order to design the best solution. The minute axis is closely attached to the basic movement of the minute repeater. The rotational movement of the minute axis is transferred horizontally, and then transmitted through the timing device, and then returned to the center of the dial to drive the hour, minute, calendar, day / night display and Calendar device with moon phase display. However, the power of the small second hand comes directly from a pivot connected to the auxiliary dial at 6 o’clock. In order to distribute the power of the calendar module as economically as possible and ensure that all relevant displays can be changed simultaneously and instantly at midnight (between -2 and +2 minutes), the patented device of Ref. 5207 has been remodeled to adapt to new Movement layout. Since the quality of the window display is greater than the pointer, this work is extremely trivial. A large yoke of 15 parts ensures that all calendar displays are adjusted at the same time on the same day. In addition, two oppositely placed complementary lever springs ensure a constant reading switching force, and even for large months, there is a great distance between the stroke of a single day retrograde and the stroke of a retrograde day at the end of February on the fourth day. In this way, you can avoid insufficient switching cycles due to insufficient power, or reverse skip heads due to excessive power.
Minute repeat
 As the Patek Philippe Ref. 5208 triple complication watch is equipped with a precision device that can instantly switch the calendar display, its time display also deserves our special attention. Therefore, the R CH 27 PS QI movement is equipped with not only the hour, minute and second hands, but also the minute repeater function, which can sound the time with a soft but clear sound. The minute repeater is the first of all complications. The minute repeater consists of a gold wire bracket and a worm wheel, a miniature hammer and a suspended spring bar. This device in the tight space of a watch places extremely high demands on the craftsmanship of the watchmaker. In more than 172 years of development, Patek Philippe has pushed the process of making minute repeaters to an unparalleled state of perfection. If the owner of Ref. 5208P pushes the slider, he will get an experience that resonates with it: first, the watch will sound the hour with a bass reed, then hit the bass and treble reed simultaneously to indicate the quarter clock, and finally The tweeter will sound the minutes from the last quarter of an hour. After many years of research, Patek Philippe has found the alloy steel that is most suitable for making spring bars, and has designed the best spring bar shapes and fixed endpoints. These research results and designs are strictly protected like state secrets. Many watch connoisseurs think that Patek Philippe’s beeping sound is perfect, and the beeping sound of any other brand of watches cannot be compared with it. The sound quality of each watch, the sound characteristics of Patek Philippe, is analyzed one by one in a completely enclosed soundproof room, and compared with a series of digital sound parameters. But because people’s impressions of resonance are often very subjective, every minute repeater watch of Patek Philippe must be personally judged by the company’s current president Terry & middot; Stein or honorary chairman Philip & middot; Stein. They listen carefully to the tone repeatedly before deciding whether the watch can be shipped from the factory or returned for sound optimization.
Pulsomax & reg; escapement made with Silinvar & reg; and Spiromax & reg; balance spring
 Although the new Ref. 5208P sapphire crystal case cannot show exciting timing devices, it does show us a remarkable achievement: the Pulsomax & reg; escapement made with Silinvar & reg; and the Spiromax & reg; balance spring, This is the first time they have been used in a Patek Philippe complication watch. These new components made of Silinvar & reg; (a silicon derivative) are from the “Research Group of Patek Philippe Concepts”. These components have many patented features and are very suitable for the new R CH 27 PS QI movement. The coup de ma & icirc; tre is precise, reliable and constantly powered. Thanks to the outstanding properties of Silinvar & reg; material, hard, lightweight, almost friction-free, anti-magnetic, corrosion-resistant, and patented component geometry, this innovative escapement is approximately 30% more efficient than traditional stainless steel devices. The power savings are all used to support the timing function.

Tianjin Seagull Watch Group Insists On Independent Innovation To Protect National Brands

‘Made in Switzerland’ has always been synonymous with high-end products in the watch industry. In recent years, Tianjin Seagull Watch Group has relied on independent innovation to form core technologies, research and develop products that represent classic technology, and strive to make national brands occupy a place in the international high-end market.
     Tianjin Seagull Group’s predecessor was Tianjin Watch Factory. In 1955, it trial-produced China’s first mechanical watch. After decades of development, Seagull watches have the strength to enter the world’s high-end technology field, producing a number of high-end products such as ‘Tourbillon Watch’, ‘Minute Repeater’ and ‘Perpetual Calendar’ with completely independent intellectual property rights.
     Seagull watches focus on enhancing core technology, and currently owns over 80% of products with independent intellectual property rights. As of the end of 2011, it had applied for and accepted 461 patents to the State Intellectual Property Office, and its technological development capability and patent ownership remained the first in China’s watch industry. At the same time, the production capacity of Seagull mechanical watch movements has reached 6 million, and the annual production capacity of finished watches is 400,000. The production capacity of movements accounts for 20% of the world.
A worker is installing a watch Seagull watch tourbillon movement 5: 1 size model. The staff of the Seagull Watch Group store is finishing the watch. The worker is installing a watch in the Seagull Watch Group workshop. A worker is holding two watch splints in the Seagull Watch Group workshop. A worker installs a watch in the workshop of the Seagull Watch Group and combines the functions of ‘Tourbillon Watch’, ‘Minute Repeater’ and ‘Perpetual Calendar’ into a ‘Three-in-One’ classic seagull watch with a value of 1.68 million yuan. Seagull watch workers install watches in the workshop