Less than two months before the opening of SIHH2019 (Geneva Haute Horlogerie Salon 2019), Cartier has just released the new Privé series. This series of watches are in the shape of wine barrels. The shape of the case is strong and pure. The dial is between rectangular and oval. The case is slightly curved to better fit the wrist.
This year, Cartier pays tribute to this legendary look with a redesigned time-of-day watch and a skeletonized dual time zone watch, taking the aesthetics of the watch to another level. The rose or platinum case is oval and curved, following the contours of the wrist. Roman numerals, track scales, winding crown set with cabochons, leather straps, lugs and decorative screws are all Cartier’s signature watchmaking elements. The new watch is faithful to the original model of 1906, but has been redesigned to meet modern needs, such as ensuring that the watch is perfectly waterproof.
The bezel is integrally formed, and its contour and lugs fit into the case. The background of the dial is in sharp contrast to the polished rhodium-plated numbers, with the rose gold version in champagne and the platinum version in silver. The crown is set with a cabochon. It is equipped with a 1917MC manually wound movement, which contains 19 gems and provides a 38-hour power reserve. Both versions are limited to 100 pieces each.
The second model is a skeletonized dual time zone watch. Cartier pays tribute to the TonneauXL dual time zone watch in the CPCP series, which took the lead in using two independent mechanisms (one is home time and the other is the second time zone). The curved case, dual time zone function, the new 9919MC movement, the gear train are connected in a line, the entire mechanism works in an orderly manner: all of this requires superb technology and innovative spirit.
To stay true to its original shape, Cartier needed to achieve two technological innovations. First, in order to maintain the slender shape of the case, all gears of the gear train need to be listed linearly between 12 o’clock and 6 o’clock. Then, the shape of the movement has to be modified to fit the curvilinear contour of the barrel case.
With its extraordinary watchmaking skills, Cartier pays attention to comfort and ergonomic design to ensure that the watch fits the wrist perfectly. In the pursuit of aesthetics, the two time zones are interconnected to create an impressive, practical and beautiful display effect: the time information on the hollowed-out bridge board is clear and easy to read, and the second time zone is pressed by the watch at 4 o’clock The crown is adjusted. By hollowing out the movement, Cartier gives the traditional complex functions a light texture and distinguished quality, and provides us with an excellent example of perfectly coordinated form and function, case and movement.
Available in rose and platinum versions, this watch is limited to 100 pieces each. A platinum case with baguette-cut diamonds is also available, limited to 20 pieces. (Photo / text watch home Xu Chaoyang)