Breakthrough Myself? Chanel Launches Calibre 3

Three years ago, CHANEL launched the first brand-made movement Calibre 1, which stunning the entire fine watchmaking industry. Chanel, which launched the brand’s first watch only in 1987, wanted to produce and develop the brand’s own movement, which itself is a great test of technology, design and craftsmanship. At this Basel watch exhibition, Chanel launched the third self-developed mechanical movement Calibre 3. Compared with the previous two homemade movements, is Calibre 3 an overly bold attempt or is it the result of breaking through and achieving success? Let’s follow the Watch House and explore the secrets of Calibre 3.

Chanel’s first self-made fine watchmaking movement Calibre 1
 In the history of watchmaking in Chanel, for a long time, the ETA-based introduction movement was used. Although the watch was also equipped with the 3125 movement provided by Audemars Piguet (AP), but developed and This self-made movement is a long-time goal of Chanel watches. Everything is difficult at the beginning. The brand began to develop this movement in 2011, which includes front-end design, research and development, and back-end assembly testing.

Chanel-made Calibre 1 design
 From Calibre
In the design diagram of 1 movement, we can see that it uses a special display mode such as time jump and eccentric reverse jump. So, when someone questioned that this movement was claimed to be a homemade movement based on a slight modification of the ETA movement, the answer was obviously obvious-impossible. First of all. ETA movement is difficult to reach such a level in the manufacturing process. Secondly, from the back of the movement, we can see that it has a unique style. Such a design and processing level is difficult to reach mass production, and it is difficult to popularize it to general product operation lines.

Monsieur de Chanel with Calibre 1
 The Calibre 1, which was successfully developed, was loaded into the Monsieur de Chanel watch, which became the first watch equipped with this movement. It is designed for men. The design of the dial is simple and powerful. Chanel has redefined a new trend.

Chanel’s second self-made fine watchmaking mechanical movement-Calibre 2
 At the Basel Watch Fair last year, we saw the second self-made movement developed by Chanel-Calibre 2, a movement designed for ladies’ watches. The Calibre 2 took 3 years to develop. Why it took so long, the difficulty of Calibre 2 research and development lies in rebuilding the beauty of the movement-the balance between camellia and movement.

Chanel Gabrielle Chanel

 We know that Ms. Chanel has always loved camellia throughout her life, and camellia has also become an important connotation and soul of the Chanel brand. She has turned camellia into a beautiful and stretchable movement structure, using artistic beauty to achieve expectations on a technical level. How to transform the design that jumps on paper into the actual structure of the movement is the difficulty for the brand to capture.

 But Chanel did it. The second self-produced Calibre 2 consisted of 107 parts, including 21 rubies. The vibration frequency reaches 28,800 times / hour, and the power reserve reaches 48 hours. The movement board is surrounded by rings, like a camellia blooming. The PREMIÈRE hollowed camellia watch equipped with this movement also captured the hearts of women with its three-dimensional shape and impeccable design.

Chanel’s third self-made fine watchmaking mechanical movement-Calibre 3
 This year, Chanel released the Calibre 3, the third self-made fine watchmaking mechanical movement, and for the first time brought a hollow design to the boyfriend model of the neutral style. Calibre 3 can serve the overall aesthetics of the watch and blends perfectly with the octagonal case of the Boy · Friend series.

Chanel’s third self-made watchmaking mechanical movement-Calibre 3

 Unlike many other fine watchmaking movements, Calibre
The 3 movement is not mirror-polished or other delicate hand-finished, but this does not mean that this movement has no technical content. The movement is treated with black ADLC coating, which is similar to DLC (Diamond-Like Carbon Coating). The ADLC carbon coating can provide extremely strong resistance. The special characteristics of the material make it have super shock resistance and scratch resistance. On the movement material, Chanel has shown us more possibilities.

Calibre 3 movement with black ADLC coating

Boy · Friend Hollow Watch Parts

 The new Boy Friend Skeleton Watch retains its classic design and adds more ideas to it. The iconic octagonal case is equipped with Calibre 3 movement with black ADLC coating, which is cut out of the bridge. The edges are coated with beige gold plating, and each watch perfectly solves every complexity. Technical difficulties.

Boy · Friend skeleton watch sketch

 In fact, for the hollow dial design, the technical requirements are higher. When hollow-out elements are increasingly used in the design of dials, to stand out from a large number of models, it is necessary to win by design and production technology. Especially in the selection and development of the movement, how to choose, how to make the whole work in harmony, how to show the beauty of different movements to the public, can the new Calibre 3 bring more different perceptions in technology and design? Experience. For Chanel, the new movement also represents a new challenge.

Boy · Friend Hollow Watch X-Ray Laser

 Excluding the excess metal, the arrangement of the gears is carried out with the contours of camellia. This is of course a test of mechanical engineering, because the arrangement of mechanical structures in traditional tabulations has a certain benchmark and cannot be changed at will.

Boy · Friend Hollow Watch Movement Assembly Drawing

 The Chanel Boy · Friend series watch with the new Calibre 3 movement, which was presented to us in the end, is a manually wound movement with a fully skeletonized design without a rudder cover. The barrel can ensure at least 55 hours The power reserve is also equipped with anti-shock device. Neither in appearance nor performance disappointed us.

Chanel Boy ∙ Skeleton Watch
 Chanel Boy ∙ Friend with the new Calibre 3 movement
The skeletonized watch will be unveiled tomorrow at the Basel exhibition, and two styles are available. The regular model is priced at 36,500 euros and the bezel-set diamond is priced at 42,500 euros. Friends who are interested can join the Watch House and follow up on the follow-up reports to explore the Chanel Calibre
 3 endless charm.

The Audemars Piguet Sounds Of Nature: Remember The Birth Of A Super Timekeeping Watch

If there is a watch that can represent the highest level of chronograph watches to date, I think the non-Audemars Piguet Royal Oak concept series super chronograph watch is undoubted. This watch lasted 8 years of unremitting research and development, and at the same time has the chronograph, three questions, tourbillon complex functions, presenting the world with an unparalleled auditory feast. This watch features a lightweight titanium case that sounds perfectly the same, and meets the highest standards of watchmaking with unparalleled acoustic performance, sophisticated sound quality and precise tonality. The official watch model is 26577TI.OO.D002CA.01.

   This super watch full of dreams, since 2006, Audemars Piguet has collaborated with the EPFL (Ecole Polytechnique Fédérale de Lausanne) to launch a pioneering acoustic research program for timepieces. Today, this sound measuring device is installed in the Audemars Piguet factory. Audemars Piguet watchmakers, craftsmen, professional technicians and experts from the Federal Institute of Technology in Lausanne work together to improve the timekeeping of the watch to a very precise level through scientific research. . Grinding a sword in eight years, now this watch has won three innovation patents, becoming today’s unparalleled minute repeater masterpiece.

A wonderful ‘acoustic instrument’
   This watch is not only a chronograph watch, its design concept comes from the principle of making stringed instruments, it can be said to be an ‘acoustic instrument’. In July of this year, Audemars Piguet also invited the famous musician Surkin (GENER8ION) to visit the birthplace of the brand, that is, Ru Gusas Brassus, to make and visualize the magnificent and superb timepieces of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Series Super Timepiece from a musical perspective Beep

New technology wakes up sound
   Audemars Piguet, as the most sophisticated minute repeater watch today, has its own unique features. Three new patents show the constant pursuit of craftsmanship and technology by Audemars Piguet watchmakers. First of all, this super chronograph watch uses a new method to design a stainless steel gong structure to create a unique minute repeater sound. Second, the Royal Oak concept series of super chronograph watches uses a newly developed case. The structure can prevent sound loss and achieve the effect of sound reinforcement. This technological innovation is like a guitar case. Through precise resonance, the sound intensity, tone and tone are improved. Finally, it is used to control the adjustment of time, time and minute rhythm. The device is also newly designed, the gong bolt is more flexible, and it can absorb the noise generated when the time signal device operates. With continuous development and innovation, Audemars Piguet’s bright and clear timekeeping voice is perfectly presented.

Complex functions and refined appearance

   Audemars Piguet manual winding watches are renowned for their reliability. The sanding, polishing and decoration of this movement is entirely done by hand to achieve the perfect quality followed by fine watchmaking. The watch is equipped with a Calibre 2937 hand-wound self-produced movement with a total of 478 parts, a power reserve of at least 42 hours, and a balance frequency of 3Hz (= 21,600 times / hour). The tourbillon function can successfully challenge gravity and improve timing accuracy, and the three-question function can make the height of the gong change let you listen to the time accurately.

Bezel

   The bezel of the watch is made of titanium, which is typical of the Royal Oak series. The iconic connection of eight hexagonal screws forms the shape of an octagonal bezel.

Case

   The 44mm case of the watch is made of lightweight titanium with architectural beauty, and the black splint becomes the background of the time adjustment structure of stainless steel. The craftsmanship required to design a watch case that feels perfect and harmonious to the wearer must meet the requirements of high-end technology, and this is an art practiced by Audemars Piguet. The black ceramic screw-in crown makes adjustments easier and more comfortable.

dial

   The hollow dial presents the modern technology contained in the watch, and the precise design of the new movement is clear at a glance. The tourbillon at 6 o’clock can be clearly seen from the precision-designed dial. The 3 o’clock scale is the chronograph scale, and the timing buttons are located on both sides of the crown. With a black dial, cutouts and satin finish, this watch looks extremely cool.

Strap

    The watch uses a rubber strap and a titanium AP folding clasp.

To sum up: the world’s sound is packed into a watch, then owning this watch is equivalent to owning the world. The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Series Super Chronograph is an amazing timepiece that allows us to see exquisite craftsmanship and high technology in ordinary life. Listen to Audemars Piguet, and pursue the beauty of the world with Audemars Piguet.

Conversation’ Watchmaker-cartier Watch Workshop And Movement Development

Recently, Cartier held a ‘Dialogue’ watchmaker media sharing meeting in Shanghai, and invited Mr. Sebastien Mathez, the director of Cartier’s fine watchmaking workshop and Geneva’s premium imprint watch workshop, who visited China for the first time to come to the scene To show you the complex movement technology, to tell the brand’s unremitting history and strong technical strength in the field of watchmaking.

 Since the first waist-link watch was sold in 1874, Cartier has created countless models with different designs and complicated functions. It has witnessed the brand’s accomplishments in aesthetic design and technology, and also shows Cartier’s past 100 years. For more than 60 years, a glorious journey of innovation and innovation.

In 1904, Cartier launched the first truly modern watch, the Santos. This watch was designed to be worn on the wrist, announcing the advent of the watch era. In 1912, Cartier’s first mysterious clock was born. With its hands suspended in the air, it was hailed as a ‘miracle in the history of clocks’. Born in 1917, the Cartier Tank watch, the avant-garde style broke the rules of the round dial, creating a new era of square watches.

Fine watchmaking occupies an important position in the creation history of Cartier watches, showing a rich diversity and valuable continuity. Today’s Cartier Haute Horlogerie series highlights the rich heritage of the brand since the beginning of the twentieth century, as well as the style exploration and evolution leading the era.

In order to better explain Cartier’s long watchmaking history and top-notch production technology, this media sharing session will show the brand’s strong watchmaking strength in the way of ‘dialogue’ watchmaking master-Mr. Sebastien Mathez. The four generations of Mr. Mathez’s family are watchmakers. He joined Cartier in 2001 and was responsible for integrating complex function movements, such as tourbillons, perpetual calendars, three questions, etc. In 2003, he was appointed head of Cartier’s after-sales service. Since 2009, he has also served as the complication watch manager, head of after-sales service and production director of ‘Poinçon de Genève’ (Geneva Seal of Quality) at the Cartier La Chaux-de-Fonds watch workshop. Since 2012 he has been in charge of Cartier’s Antique Restoration Workshop. In 2013, he was appointed Director of Cartier’s Fine Watchmaking and Geneva Premium Imprint Watch Workshop.

La Chaux-de-Fonds Watch Workshop

Since its establishment, Cartier is known for its sophisticated watchmaking skills, and its watch works have all shown extraordinary manufacturing techniques and outstanding artistic accomplishments. In the 1970s, Cartier acquired some watchmaking factories in La Chaux-de-Fonds and entered the heart of Swiss watchmaking.

At present, Cartier owns a total of six watch workshops in Switzerland. The watch workshop in La Chaux-de-Fonds was completed in 2000, integrating many watchmaking units of the brand that were scattered in La Chaux-De-Fonds at that time. This watch workshop covering an area of ​​over 30,000 square meters is the center of Cartier timepiece design and production. It has the most advanced technology and equipment, and is also one of the largest fully integrated watch workshops in Switzerland. The workshop brought together more than 1,200 skilled artisans from 37 countries, covering 175 watchmaking skills, belonging to the movement research and development, watch production, quality control and customer service departments, and the repair department. As one of the few watch workshops that can completely design, produce and repair its own watches and movements, it represents the perfect fusion of high technology and craftsmanship.

In order to establish and strengthen communication among various departments, the Cartier La Chardonnay Watch Workshop first launched the “Made in Cartier” program in 2005 to ensure that each timepiece work can be used in all stages of design and development. Get input from different professional departments. In 2007, the ‘THINK TANK’ plan, based on the concept of ‘the same team, the same place,’ brought together all the processes required to manufacture a watch or movement, and managed them by district. This innovative mode of time and space management facilitates the sharing of various manual skills, quickly transforms design concepts into works, and puts Cartier Watch Workshop among the few with the ability to produce all watch or movement parts (including the case , Straps, hands, mirrors, plywood, watch bridges, etc.).

Cartier’s watchmaking studio (l’espace Production) is like a concert hall, and the master watchmakers are ‘conductors of small orchestras’, assembling hundreds of parts by hand, and then carefully adjusting, Into a moving piece of music. At all stages of watch development, all components are thoroughly tested to ensure compliance with their functional standards, durability standards and applicable standards from an ergonomic point of view. During the research and development process, the watch needs to undergo nearly 150 different identification tests and inspection steps, so as to evaluate each part of the watch and the overall coordinated operation of the watch.

The watchmakers in the Cartier Watchmaking Studio (l’ espace Production) assembled hundreds of parts by hand and then carefully adjusted them.

In La Chaux-de-Font watch workshops, Cartier has always provided comprehensive internal training courses, because the production of each movement has its own special requirements, which requires a lot of training outside the standard courses of watchmaking schools. While relentlessly pursuing innovation, Cartier is also actively guarding traditional arts and ancient watchmaking techniques, and inheriting the watchmaking tradition through internal training and process integration. The Institute Horlogerie Cartier, founded by Cartier Watch Workshop, provides trainees with new skills training to ensure that Swiss watchmaking technology can be promoted in the future.

Movement R & D and Fine Watchmaking

In the Cartier La Chateaux watch workshop, a 35-person movement research and development team and a 60-person watch design team have been set up to ensure that from the initial idea to the final formation, it is possible to create a machine entirely designed and developed by the brand. Core and watch. In 2009 and 2012, Cartier launched the first life-long concept watch without adjustment ID One and the first high-performance concept watch ID Two, which opened up an unprecedented new direction for mechanical watches.

In 2009, Cartier’s first self-winding mechanical movement, 1904 MC, was born, reflecting the brand’s innovative spirit and ambition in the development of self-made movements, and also providing more possibilities for Cartier watch creation . From Calibre de Cartier watches to Tank MC watches, the 1904 MC movement is gradually becoming the backbone of Cartier watch movements.

With its creativity, precision, and innovation, the Cartier Watch Workshop continues to open up new territories and challenges extreme excellence. Since the launch of the new Haute Horlogerie series in 2008, Cartier has developed 25 self-made Haute Horlogerie movements in just 6 years, 9 of which are even more honored by the Geneva premium mark representing the quality of top-level watches, showing the brand’s Increasing strength in the field of watchmaking.

Some of the most striking examples of Cartier’s fine watchmaking collections include the 2011 Rotonde de Cartier Astrorégulateur celestial constant center of gravity device watch, the 2012 Rotonde de Cartier floating tourbillon minute repeater watch, and the 2013 Rotonde The de Cartier dual mysterious tourbillon watch and the latest Rotonde de Cartier Astrocalendaire watch launched in 2014, show Cartier’s high level of accomplishment in the field of movement creation, and also reflect Cartier’s uniqueness for advanced complex functions opinion.

Rotonde de Cartier Astrocalendaire watch with perpetual calendar, Cartier 9459 MC workshop refined movement, engraved ‘Geneva quality seal’
Rotonde de Cartier dual mysterious tourbillon watch, Cartier 9454 MC workshop refined movement, engraved with ‘Geneva quality seal’
Rotonde de Cartier watch with floating tourbillon, Cartier 9402 MC workshop refined movement, engraved with ‘Geneva quality seal’
Rotonde de Cartier Astrorégulateur celestial constant center of gravity device watch, Cartier 9800MC workshop refined movement
POPOINÇON DE GENÈVE Workshop

In 2008, Cartier Ballon Bleu de Cartier floating tourbillon 9452 MC calibre was awarded the ‘Poinçon de Genève’ certification for the first time. To date, Cartier has 43 watches engraved with the mark. Successfully ranked among the very few watch brands that have won the Poinçon de Genève mark, which reflects Cartier’s values ​​of watchmaking heritage, adherence to stringent requirements, and the pursuit of excellence.

The ‘Poinçon de Genève’ has a long history. It was first established in 1886 through the Geneva Laws. Since then, it has been revised and improved several times. Watches from the Canton of Geneva are inspected by an independent testing agency. Today, the ‘Poinçon de Genève’ is awarded by the Geneva Watchmaking and Micro-Engineering Laboratory (also known as the ‘Time Lab’) to highlight the outstanding features and aesthetics of watches that honor this mark, Only watches that meet aesthetic, technical (calibre design), timing (precision) and other standards and are assembled, adjusted and cased in the Canton of Geneva will be awarded this honor. Therefore, it is not only a proof of origin, but also a guarantee of high quality. For many years, the ‘Poinçon de Genève’ has only been used as the certification mark of the movement, but its latest regulation changes have extended the certification requirements to the entire watch, covering comprehensive functional standards and the entire case.

In order to better meet the stringent requirements of the latest Poinçon de Genève regulations, Cartier set up a Poinçon de Genève watch workshop last year in a boutique on 35 Rhone Street in Geneva. , Reappearing the classic scene of the ‘attic craftsman’ of the 18th century, when watchmakers often set up their workshops in the attic on the top floor of the watch shop. Today, many Cartier fine watchmaking engraved with the ‘Poinçon de Genève’ are assembled in this workshop.

In order to obtain the ‘Poinçon de Genève’, the Cartier Watch Workshop presents exquisite movements to certified experts: the chamfers of the main bridge and the bridge are polished and the sides are brushed. The screw head must be polished, and the screw grooves and corners must be chamfered … In addition, the watch must pass the most stringent precision performance test: in the seven-day observation, the travel time error can not exceed 1 minute.

‘Poinçon de Genève’ is the outstanding symbol of Cartier workshop refined movement, and it is also a symbol of its connotation beauty. Cartier’s ‘Poinçon de Genève’ watch workshop is a guarantee of the brand’s watch’s outstanding performance, exquisite decoration and extraordinary quality, which demonstrates Cartier’s exquisite craftsmanship based on the highest standards of Geneva watchmaking and a long tradition. With determination.

 Cartier 9452 MC calibre, awarded ‘Poinçon de Genève’

Since the 19th century, Cartier has continued to write new chapters in the history of watchmaking, creating legends with extraordinary works. Each unique Cartier watch proves that a complex function is not only a mere crystallization of technology, but also a carrier that perfectly integrates function and beauty. As always, the Cartier Watch Workshop continues to interpret the rules of watchmaking and break the rules to produce unparalleled classics that have won excellence and exclusive certification marks.

Categories: watches

Delano Brown And Richard Miller Perform Clock Art

For the majority of watch art festivals, if you haven’t heard Delano Brown’s name then you must not call it an art lover. Delano Brown is commonly referred to as a badass artist. The reason why he is called this way is mostly because of his crazy creative style.

 The difference between him and many artists is that he is extremely passionate about the material of canvas, as we can see from his dress. It is said that art originates from life, and Delano Brown formally and perfectly explains this, which is the real reason why Richard Miller chose to join him.

 Delano Brown is affectionately called a super handpainter, which proves his infinite charm. His artistic purpose is to give things a richer connotation. Whether compared to distant ancient times, hand-painting is an art form that has been preserved since the Renaissance.

 In today’s life, hand-painting also brings more color and happiness to people’s lives. Whether it’s the clothes, socks and shoes we wear.

 Richard Miller is formally drawn to Delano Brown, the most primitive art form endowed by life.

Sihh’s Six Senses Tour, Super Alternative Opening In 2018

Do you know the name of my public number? So, what is Liuchen? This time I’m serious, I want to take you to experience what is the six dust in the red dust.

—- Mr. Ye
December 22, 2017

   Thank you for staying with me. It’s been a while. Tired, come on, walk! A journey that goes away.

   With my careful arrangement, I will let you slowly open the wonderful journey of all senses.
   Color-Vision-Participate in SIHH and Mystery Watch Factory Tour
   Sound-Hearing-Royal Opera House
   Fragrant-Smell-Visit the largest Churchill cigar in Europe
   Taste-Taste-Try two Michelin stars (only three Michelin stars in London), Royal Afternoon Tea
   Touch-Touch-Stay at an Intercontinental Five-Star Hotel, Shotgun Course or Saal Street Gieves & Hawkes Full Custom Suit
   Law-Mind-Westminster Church Pray, Make a Wish 2018
Sell ​​details before publishing details
A quick review of the trip to Britain, France and Switzerland last year

United Kingdom

Europe’s largest stock of cigars, beautiful women order cigars!

Two Michelin stars: Sketch, a weird toilet

A normally low-key hotel that nobles know

France

Visit the Chanel House

Michelin Samsung Le Epicure

Interview with Mr. Baodi, he wore an amazing piece of Baodi that day.

Switzerland

AP Audemars Piguet Watch Factory Tour

Patek Philippe Museum studied, carrying a lot of four digits

Visited Philippe Dufour, the watchmaker, but couldn’t buy his watch. . . It seems to have to look around!

   Before introducing this trip, spread SIHH first, you may not know, senior watch fans can skip it!

What is SIHH?

   Maybe everyone has heard of the Basel Watch Fair, but in the circle of watches, SIHH refers to the Geneva International Haute Horlogerie,
I think: SIHH is the Oscar in the watch industry. Each January sets the overall trend of the watch’s overall tone.
The origin of SIHH must first mention the Xixi of Lifeng
   There is a powerful group called Li Feng. Why mention this group, because he has a character, SIHH arises because of it.
   In 1991, his Cartier brought four other brands to the Geneva show, and in the following years, more and more big names joined. In 1998, Vacheron Constantin joined and some independent watchmaker brands Christophe Claret also came.
   Until 2017, Geneva watches and clocks have developed into Oscars in the watch industry, 30 big names joined, and the flow of people reached a historical peak.
   For more than ten years, Richemont has been acquiring first-line watch brands:
   Acquired Panerai in 1997,
   Acquisition of Jaeger-LeCoultre, IWC and Lange in 2000,
   Acquisition of Van Cleef & Arpels in 2001 …
Why is SIHH so bullish?
   Since its inception, it has adhered to the invitation system (only 60 places are available to Chinese media) and is not open to the public.

   However, the last day of the 28th exhibition in 2018 was completely open, but it must be purchased online in advance.
   Example: There are no oxen at the door, sometimes such official ox carts appear.
   Can I borrow someone else’s pass?
   No, because the certificate is issued in advance and registered, one for each person, except for twins.
Anyway,
In addition to chefs and waiters, there are only five types of people in the museum:
Celebrities, exhibitors, invited media, dealers, collectors.

East, west, west, north and south can you find what you love?

Last year review: 2017 SIHH Swiss

Review of last year: 2017 SIHH German and Italian
   Let’s look at a Pre-2018 SIHH AP first to get an eye addiction.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Frost Gold Limited Edition (41mm), limited to 200 pieces

Mysterious Six Sense Itinerary Details Revealed

January 15, 2018-January 19, 2018
Fly to Geneva and visit the SIHH exhibition watch factory. The specific itinerary is confidential!

Saturday, January 20

Fly to London and stay at Intercontinental

Shop at Savile Row for a custom-made suit

I actually booked the hardest Hell restaurant

Sunday, January 21

Go to church for prayer or free time

Formal at the Royal Opera House

Monday, January 22

Visit the UK’s largest real estate developer

Private Shotgun Course @ 唐 顿 文明?

Tuesday, January 23

Royal Afternoon Tea @D ******

Michelin Samsung: Alain Ducasse

   In an air crash, the only survivor who survived, he eventually became a legendary figure of Michelin Samsung. What about his dishes?
   If you are all together, dine in tassel (you can’t see the outside, you can see the outside)

Wednesday, January 24
Go back home and work hard for the life you want!
Mr. Ye accompanied us to remind:

   Original intention of the itinerary: Let you escape from the busy life in China, open up your senses to explore the combination of watch culture and lifestyle,
After returning to China, I can better understand the hard-won life and stimulate the motivation of struggle.
   I can help: help you book all appointments and book trips that Ctrip cannot provide, but all trips can only be arranged by me.
What you need to prepare: Go for a visa!
   Note: This is a sensory journey. I am not your guide, but my companion. If there is a fate, add micro: jet_ye

Egg: British Airways

If you are lucky, you can visit the cockpit and take a photo with the captain, and leave it to him.

Rolex Deep Dive Type Real Waterproof Artifact

In 2008, the Rolex Deepsea was introduced for the first time. Ten years later, at Baselworld 2018, Rolex launched a new deep dive watch. The new watch looks similar to its predecessor, but has been significantly upgraded: Calibre 3235. This movement not only provides an impressive 70-hour power reserve, but also applies a number of new patented technologies to take the deep dive watch a step further, proving Rolex’s determination and strength to continuously push the boundaries.

 Deep diving, Submariner and Sea-Dweller have attracted a large number of loyal fans among collectors and enthusiasts. When it comes to deep diving, many people’s first impression is that the size (case diameter 44 mm) is too large to be comfortable enough to wear. Indeed, the deep dive is like a monster, but for good reason. The deep dive watch has an impressive water resistance rating of 3,900 meters (12,800 feet) and can withstand tremendous stress in extremely harsh environments.

The first sea-dweller watch, 1967
 The Sea-Dweller came out in 1967 and was introduced to the market under the name of a watch specially made for professional divers. Initially, the sea-dwelling design was able to withstand a depth of 610 meters (2,000 feet) and was equipped with a helium exhaust valve co-developed by Rolex. In 1978, its waterproof depth was upgraded to 1,220 meters (4,000 feet). Since then, the sea-dweller has always maintained a waterproof crown, until the birth of the deep diving type in 2008. The deep diving type is impressively waterproof, thanks to the unique Ringlock system, which consists of a sapphire crystal, an inner ring and a case back.

Rolex Dive Watch, 2008

Three tons of water pressure
 The domed sapphire crystal of the deep diving watch is 5.5 mm thick. Compared with the submersible watch’s mirror surface (thickness less than 2 mm), the deep submersible watch’s mirror surface can be called heavy, but it is necessary to consider the pressure of three tons of water. Defective mirrors or deep scratches can cause the watch to fail the water resistance test. In this case, the only solution was to replace a new, undamaged mirror.

 Sandwiched between the mirror and the bottom cover is a steel compression ring to help the case withstand the tremendous pressure exerted deep in the water. Many watches are equipped with an inner ring that holds the movement tightly. In deep-dive watches, the structure of the case inner ring helps reduce the pressure on the case. The inner ring itself is made of nitrogen-containing steel. This alloy is more resistant to corrosion and stronger than high carbon steel. The presence of the inner ring of the case shares tremendous pressure on the mirror and the bottom cover.

Back of deep dive watch
 Generally speaking, wristwatches rely on the case to withstand pressure, and the mirror and bottom cover are installed in the middle of the case through washers. In the deep dive watch, the mirror and bottom cover are separated from the case, and the inner ring is compressed to bear the pressure. This structure keeps the watch in a relatively normal size, compared to the conventional sea-dweller watch, the diameter of the deep dive watch is only 1 mm larger.

Titanium case back
 The submersible and sea-dwelling bottom covers are made of 904L high-grade stainless steel (also known as oystersteel). The options for deep diving are not the same because they need to dive deeper. Rolex chooses grade 5 titanium, which has better compression and tensile strength than stainless steel, and a higher upper limit of elasticity. As mentioned earlier, the titanium bottom cover is located directly below the inner ring of the nitrogen-containing steel (separated by a gasket). The stainless steel outer ring is then screwed onto the housing to hold the titanium ring in place.

3235 movement
 During my visit to the Rolex Geneva watch factory, I saw a sea-dweller watch being brought to the water-repellent depth of a deep-dive watch, and the result was eye-opening. The bottom cover shattered directly, just like someone hit with a hammer. The movement protrudes from the front of the case, and the dial is forced through a broken mirror. This scene left a deep impression on the author, and it also made people sincerely admire the mechanical properties of the deep dive watch.

 Do ordinary PADI (International Association of Professional Dive Instructor) divers need a watch that is water-resistant to 3,900 meters (12,800 feet)? Not really. In fact, Rolex has no reason to create a deep-dive watch for the average consumer, but this move really pleases labor fans. In a sense, this is both a professional watch and a ‘dazzling’ watch. With the upgrade of the 3235 movement this year, I believe many labor fans can’t wait for the new deep diving watch. (Photo / text watch home compiled by Xu Chaoyang)

Categories: watches

The Art Of Light And Shadow Tasting Athens’ New Original Hollow Table

At this year’s Basel International Watch & Jewellery Show, Athens launched a number of innovative watches, including enamel-filled watches, flying tourbillon watches and minute repeaters, etc. Amazing watch. This time, I will introduce you to the first hollow-out watch with tourbillon movement, which was developed with the latest silicon technology, and made a breakthrough in watch innovation. Official model: 1702-129 red gold 1709-129 platinum.

   Making a skeleton watch is a delicate art, which requires excellent watchmaking technology and high sensitivity to art. The purpose is to minimize the structure of the parts and allow light to penetrate the watch freely, thereby displaying the machine. The operation of the core and showing the beauty of the special.

   The original hollow-out watch of the Athens watch is a model of light and shadow application. In order to pursue the ultimate visual effect, a new movement has been specially developed. Its exquisite structure and perfect balance ratio instantly show infinite charm.

   A 44 mm diameter platinum case houses a carefully designed movement in Athens. The barrel at 12 o’clock is opposite the escapement at 6 o’clock, presenting a symmetrical beauty.

  The large steel wheel on the escapement at 6 o’clock is engraved with the brand name, logo and power reserve, making it the most sophisticated watch introduction.

  The surface of the movement is decorated with conspicuous sandblasting and polishing, forming a strong contrast. Add different colors to metal parts to enhance visual enjoyment. The hand-polished beveled splint is embellished with satin-polished sun rays, and a deep red ruby ​​emits a dazzling light on the splint. The sapphire blue pointer, on top of it, radiates the sapphire light conspicuously and proudly.

  The watch uses a manual winding movement, and through the wear-resistant sapphire crystal glass, you can clearly see the winding process of the movement through a single crown.

  The strap is a black alligator leather strap with a platinum pin buckle.

  It is equipped with UN-170’s self-made manual mechanical movement, set with 23 bright gems, with a frequency of 18,000 times per hour, and a power reserve of 170 hours.

Summary: This 1709-129 tourbillon skeleton watch elegantly showcases the extraordinary watchmaking craftsmanship and very innovative spirit of Athens. A hand-winding movement can be seen in a flying tourbillon composed of a silicon spring, an anchor escapement and an escape wheel. The exquisite hollow design allows the light that shines through to add artistic beauty to this complex watch. There are two versions of the original skeleton watch, 1702-129 red gold and 1709-129 platinum. Each edition is limited to 99 pieces.
More watch details: yadian / 28881 /

Low-key But More Unique Brief Comment On The Athens Watch Nautical Series 1846 Watch

When it comes to nautical watches, we will think of many brands. The one that impressed me the most was the Athens watch. I remember that when I experienced the brand’s nautical watches a few years ago in Athens, the magnificent The texture of the waves, the comfortable rubber strap, and the dial design derived from the marine astronomical clock, there is a situation of being at the seaside, waiting for sailing. The origin of the Athenian watch and navigation comes from the beginning of the brand in 1846, and since 171, to commemorate this glorious past, the Athenian watch has launched many special watches, and today we are going to show you one of them This watch is not much different from other watches in appearance, but it has essential differences. Let’s experience it together.

   The history of the Athenian Maritime Astronomical Clock is more or less known to everyone. It has served in the armed forces of dozens of countries, including Asian countries such as China and Japan. In the early days, the Athenian Nautical Astronomical Clock was used to measure the longitude of the fleet, but later it has evolved into a reliable precision device that can accurately display the time for backup purposes.

   The marine watch is a revisit of the marine astronomical clock. Its design fully complies with the iconic elements of the marine astronomical clock: simple dial, roman numerals, power reserve display, large small seconds. Some of these nautical astronomical clocks also use peach-shaped hands. As a symbolic watch, the Athens Sailing Series 1846 combines these elements in one.

   Visually, it is representative and completely different from all other types of watches. Even if you do not know what it means, you will be touched by its coordinated and unique design. But if you know that there is a marine astronomical clock, then you will be attracted to it, it is almost condensed into the wrist, let you carry it, which has different meanings for sailors.

The watch case is made of stainless steel with a diameter of 41 mm, which is slightly smaller than the common 42 and 43 mm nautical series watches, which is not too obvious. The crown has the brand LOGO, the new watch, the LOGO has been replaced with a positive anchor mark, which is easy to distinguish from previous models.

I said before that it’s a special section, so what’s so special about it? The first is the dial. This watch uses a large open flame enamel, so visually, it will have a purer color and luster than a regular lacquer. Great fire enamel is a type of enamel fired, and the Athenian watch is used in many series including the classic series. Enamel can keep the color and luster as new, and it is also a form of art of watch. Above the enamel plate, the brand produced elements such as the track minute plate, power reserve display plate, small second plate, and 1846. The pointer is made of blue steel. This kind of pointer is not easy to be oxidized in the air, and has good color and luster, and it is widely used.

The bezel is treated with a coin pattern, highlighting the sporty style of the watch.

The watch comes with a black leather strap with a pin buckle, and the buckle is etched with the brand’s anchor logo. The whole feeling is very simple and elegant, the structure is simple, and it is comfortable to wear, but because of the characteristics of the leather strap itself, the newly purchased watches will have a bit hard belt, which needs to adapt to a few days.

Each watch has a separate number to reflect the uniqueness of the watch. This number is designed on the side of the case in a patch way (for the sake of sales and customer privacy, the number is hidden here).

Turning over the watch, the bottom cover is the back of the dense bottom, which etched the record of 18 gold awards since the brand was founded, these are some of the highest awards at the time. On the inside of the caseback, there is a self-winding mechanical movement of UN-118 self-made by Athens. It has a 60-hour power reserve and uses DIAMonSIL diamond silicon crystal technology to further enhance the performance of the core components of the watch. Certified.

To this end, we measured the performance of this watch. We wind the watch with a power of about 48 hours. This ensures that the watch is in a very stable state of power. The five-way data shows that the watch has excellent travel time accuracy, which fully meets the accuracy requirements of the observatory certification. At the same time, We see that the watch has a stable swing in different orientations. In static tests, the watch traveled well.

Summary: This watch has a low-key appearance. You just don’t think it will be very different from other marine series watches from the surface, but it is a special watch with a large fire enamel dial, bottom The cover is engraved with the brand’s 18 gold medal records, which condenses the brand’s glorious past and sophisticated watchmaking technology. Because of its low profile, it is even more unique.

Categories: watches

Fashion, Light Luxury, Three Frederique Constant Watches Recommended

Constance, which is positioned as a “light luxury”, was founded in 1988 by Dr. Peter Stas and his wife Aletta Stas. It is Constance’s goal to enable the masses to purchase luxury goods. Therefore, each of Frederique Constant watches embodies a fairly deep design concept and aesthetic texture. The gorgeous and elegant appearance is perfectly combined with the watch’s manufacturing process, and is favored and loved by watch lovers who pursue a taste of life . Today I will introduce several watches from Frederique Constant.
Frederique Constant RIVA HISTORIAL SOCIETY Limited Edition FC-330 RM6B4

Watch Series: Rowing Series
Movement type: automatic machinery
Case material: Rose gold
Strap material: leather
Domestic public price: ¥ 21500
Watch details: frederiqueconstant / 32561 /
Comment on this watch: This watch has a diameter of 43 mm and a case thickness of 11.4 mm. The case material is gold-plated and has a layer of rose gold. The polished and polished case looks very textured. On the round silver dial, there are minute scales and Arabic numeral clock scales from outside to inside, the date display at three o’clock, the moon phase display at six o’clock, and the day of the week at nine o’clock. The uniquely shaped hands are luminous. Equipped with Frederique Constant’s own FC-330 movement. The strap is made of cowhide leather with a folding clasp. Back-through design provides 100 meters of water resistance.
Frederique Constant FC-705N4S6B watch

Movement type: own movement
Case material: Stainless steel
Strap material: stainless steel
Domestic public price: ¥ 29000
Watch details: frederiqueconstant / 32775 /
Comment on the watch: 42 mm diameter, the case is made of stainless steel. The round dial is available in two colors, dark blue and white. This watch uses a dark blue dial. The slender willow-shaped hands are matched with the time scale. There is a moon phase display window in the clock direction, and there is a circle of date display around the moon phase display window. It is powered by Frederique Constant’s own movement, model FC-705, which uses 26 gems and provides a power reserve of 42 hours. Stainless steel bracelet. The back cover has a back-through design.
Frederique Constant watch FC-718MC4H6B

Movement type: own movement
Case material: Stainless steel
Strap material: stainless steel
Domestic public price: ¥ 31000
Watch details: frederiqueconstant / 32769 /
Comment on this model: This model is FC-718MC4H6B, and its functions are relatively complicated. The diameter is 42 mm and the thickness is 12.1 mm. The material of the case is stainless steel. The outermost circle of the silver-white circular dial is the world time zone, and the inner circle is a 24-hour time display zone, with Arabic numerals as the time scale, and clockwise from 6 to 18 o’clock on a white background, indicating daylight The background is black counterclockwise, indicating night. Inside is the twelve hour time scale, with Roman characters as the time scale. At six o’clock is the date display. It is equipped with a movement model FC-718, which is also produced by Frederique Constant. It uses 26 gems and provides a power reserve of 42 hours. The strap is made of stainless steel. Water-resistant to 50 meters.
Summary: From just designing a watch outside of work to an order for 350 watches announcing the birth of Frederique Constant, in the short span of ten years, Peter and his wife Aletta finally devoted themselves to their beloved In the field of watchmaking, with the concept of ‘accessible luxury’, we continue to create more high-quality watches for watch fans. I hope that the three watches recommended by Frederique Constant today will get your like.

Categories: watches

The Charm Of The ‘small Three-pin’ Tasting Iwc Expresses The ‘150th Anniversary’ Special Edition Of The Vinci Automatic Watch

Since 2017, IWC has launched a new Da Vinci series watch, reinterpreting the classic circular design style of the 1980s. And this year, on the occasion of the 150th anniversary of the founding of IWC, a special edition of the ‘150th Anniversary’ Da Vinci automatic watch was launched. There are 2 watches with different functions, equipped with different materials and dial colors.

   The ‘150th Anniversary’ special edition watch has a lacquered dial, white or dark blue, which is very beautiful. Watch House also got one of the ‘small seconds’ models (model: IW358101). Let’s take a look at what makes this special edition watch different.

   After reinterpreting Da Vinci’s iconic round design and giving it more modern colors, the classic double-bezel bezel, round crown and button elements have been continued and simplified, such as making the bezel narrower More flat, in line with today’s aesthetics. This ‘small second’ watch uses a 40mm stainless steel case, a white lacquered dial, and is equipped with the IWC 82200 self-produced movement for the first time.

   The unique semi-circular crown of the Da Vinci series is not only beautiful but also very easy to operate.

   Santoni crocodile leather strap, whether it is workmanship, texture, dyeing or wearing comfort is an undoubted enjoyment. This watch is equipped with a black alligator leather strap, and inside the strap is a jump orange, with a polished stainless steel folding buckle.

   The thickness of the case is 12.1 mm.

   The unique design of the Da Vinci series of lugs not only unique but also pays attention to practicality. This lug can move on the fixed shaft of the raw ear, making the watch fit the wrist of the wearer more.

   The dial uses a lacquered dial. If the lacquered dial is not handled properly during the production process, bubbles are easy to appear on the dial. In order to avoid this situation and make the dial white more intense, IWC has painted up to 12 layers, each layer of paint is very thin, and the finished product’s look and feel is completely comparable to the enamel dial. The dial layout is very concise, using the Arabic numerals hour watch and peripheral transfer 60-minute circle, blue steel hands, small seconds dial at 6 o’clock.

   The IWC 82200 self-made movement is equipped with a newly developed Pellerton automatic winding system, which provides a 60-hour power reserve. For heavy-duty winding parts, such as pawls or cams, they are made of ceramic material with zero wear. Beaded pendulums and Geneva-striped bridges are clearly visible through the skeleton rotor.

Summary: Da Vinci Automatic ‘150th Anniversary’ Special Edition Small Seconds Watch, there are three models, 18K red gold case with white dial and steel case with white and blue dial, including red gold Limited to 250 pieces and 500 pieces in stainless steel. The lacquered dial is the biggest highlight of this watch, and interested friends may wish to try it on in a specialty store.

Categories: watches